Continued from March 23, 2012
After leaving Fishkill, New York, the Stuarts and
their driver headed north again. Stuart found that the hilly road to
Poughkeepsie reminded him of his home country. With some differences.
"Many of the passes are narrow, and remind a traveller of defiles of the
same kind in the Highlands of Scotland. The mountains of Scotland are far more
magnificent, for there is no elevation here above 1500 or 1600 feet in height;
but there is no such river in the Highlands of Scotland as the Hudson."
They halted their journey in Poughkeepsie at the
end of the morning, eating at Swift's Hotel, "as handsomely furnished as
any country hotel I have seen anywhere. A piano-forte is in the parlour."
By this time the village had a population of close to 7,000 people. There were
three weekly newspapers in town, but in order to save on the cost of delivery
all three came out on Wednesdays. Which kept carrier John Cornish busy just
once a week. It would be a while before the publishers would catch on to the
fact that they could collectively sell more papers each week if they didn't all
three carry the same news. Cornish and his successors would do better
financially as well. The Stuarts were probably unaware of all this; they moved
on right after their midday meal.
As they passed Hyde Park on their way towards
Rhinebeck, Stuart apparently knew that his recent acquaintance, Dr. David
Hosack, was not just then in residence, for he mentions no effort to accept
Hosack's offer of hospitality. He does comment on the site's beauty and
mentions, "views, ending with the Catskill mountains in the distance, that
can hardly be surpassed." He notes that, "A great number of workmen
are at present employed by him in extensive improvements upon the grounds, and
the enlargement of his mansion-house." A later tourist named Harriet
Martineau, who traveled through the state in the mid-1830s, comments on the
Hosack mansion. "Dr. Hosack's good taste led him to leave it alone, and to
spend his pains on the gardens and conservatory behind." Martineau, by the
way, seems to be a soul-mate of James Stuart, also very interested in Auburn
Prison.
With September giving way to October (Stuart
doesn't give exact dates) the nights were quite bit cooler, especially here in
the upper elevations, and the air was cold as they arrived at Jacob's Hotel at
Rhinebeck, in time for dinner. Reading that in Stuart's published journal and
being a curious person (put your own interpretation on THAT), I started poking
around in some old Rhinebeck histories to see if I could find who this Jacob
was. I didn't find anything which, of course, proves nothing. However. If you
know Rhinebeck at all, you're familiar with the Beekman Arms. In 1766, Arent
Traphagen moved his father's inn from the fringes of Ryn Beck to the main
intersection, several miles uphill from the river. The southwest corner. At the
time of the Revolution it was run by a man with the rather rhythmic name of
Everadus Bogardus and called the Bogardus Inn. In the early 1800s it was run by
a couple with the last name of Jacques. Today it's still in operation as the
Beekman Arms and claims to be the oldest, continually operating tavern in the
United States. Fans of the Wayside Inn of Massachusetts strenuously believe
otherwise, and bar bets over that question will never be settled to everyone's
satisfaction. What I'm wondering is this. When Stuart sat down to publish his
travels four years after his stay here, did he perhaps rely on an only-human
memory, and Scot-icize (or his equivalent of Anglicize) the name Jacques into
Jacob? We may never know.
© 2012 David Minor / Eagles Byte
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